Blue Lakes State Park, New Mexico

We left Canyon de Chelly and headed east towards home. The trip between the Canyon and Santa Fe would be a long one so we decided to break it up by staying at Blue Lakes State Park. The park is about nine miles off of I-40 around Grants, NM.

The park is in a beautiful setting. One can choose to camp at the rim of a canyon or overlooking the lake. We chose the lake. There was only one other camper there. We knew our trip was nearly over and this place would be our last until the next time. It was serendipity that we chose it and a delight to be there. Above is a picture of Lyn and Ann's Airstream and below it our View. We will return to this lovely place.

Canyon de Chelly National Monument, Arizona

It was a very long ride from Tuba City to Canyon de Chelly. We stayed in the free campground at the Canyon -- a pleasant place that was half empty when we arrived but filled up pretty fast towards night fall. We were greeted there by many stray dogs who knew the campground was a great place to forage for food and there were dog loving suckers to be had. One stray, a nursing bitch, swiped an entire bowl of dog food from outside Lyn and Ann's rig. She returned the next day for more. The word was out and others followed. Ann and Lyn made certain they were all fed.

The next day there we went searching for a guide to take us into the Canyon. We chose a woman guide who was sitting outside the Visitor's Center. She is a licensed Navajo guide and she piled into Ann and Lyn's big honking Ford 250 with us to lead us into the Canyon. Ann drove and her chore in handling the truck in the deep sand was helped somewhat when we stopped and all got out to let air out of the tires. She drove on masterfully.

The tour of Canyon de Chelly was the low point of our trip. We are a curious bunch and we wanted to know things. Our guide was more useful at telling us what direction to head than she was in providing us with the historical perspective we all wanted. Our first stop led to a truck loaded with trinkets being sold by our guide's daughter. It did not get any better for the next three hours. All in all, we feel we missed an opportunity to learn something and our next trip to the Canyon, if we make it again, will be well thought out ahead of time and we will seek recommendations on guides who are knowledgeable, interested, and excited about showing people around the Canyon. The Canyon is beautiful and the picture below of ruins tucked into the rock walls is a poor representation of the beauty we found there.

Tuba City, Arizona

We headed out of Zion National Park a day early and ended up in Tuba City, Arizona as a way point on to Canyon de Chelly.

The drive between Zion and Tuba City is long and there is little chance to find diesel. In fact, we went close to 90 miles without seeing a gas station and limped into Tuba City on fumes. It is worth noting, though, that an excellent lunch can be had at the Cliff at Cliff Dwellers, the last place for gas before the 90 miles to Tuba City. From Cliff Dwellers the ride goes through the wonderful Vermillion Cliffs and over the Colorado River gorge.

Tuba City seemed to have nothing to recommend itself but a commercial campground offerring cable and hot showers. That was enough of a draw for us! Tuba City is Hopi country smack in the middle of the Navajo Nation. The campground hosts told us that a major parade would be happening the next day and that crowds would gather before sun up. She said that the crowds would be so large we had the choice of leaving early or not being able to get our rigs out of the campsite. Or, she said, we could leave late after the parade had ended. We opted to leave early. Real early. We had not realized there was a time change so when we thought we were leaving at 6 a.m. to beat the crowds lining up we were actually leaving at 5 a.m. No wonder there were no crowds! The ride out was on an endless ribbon of road heading east with streams of headlights coming at us presumably to get to the parade early.

The highlight of the trip was the three Mesas. At the Second Mesa we had a fine breakfast, the only place to eat in miles. And on the eastern most First Mesa we found a jeweler open and we dropped some big bucks on wonderful Hopi rings and bracelets. And then we were on our way to Canyon de Chelly.

Zion National Park, Utah

The drive between Bryce and Zion on Rt. 12 is long and spectacularly beautiful. The section of "hogback" where the drops on both sides of the road are steep is thrilling for those who like that sort of thing and terrifying for those of us who do not.

Once off Rt. 12 and heading into the east entrance of Zion the height phobic need to prepare for the 3,000 foot descent down the side of a mountain with no guard rails. But first this: for those of you who have a Winnebago View or Navion I would suggest showing the guard the official Winnie book with measurements or you might be compelled to have an escort through the tunnel. Also, do measurements that include tucked in mirrors. We made it without an escort but I understand others with Views and Navions have not. An escort costs $15 -- no big deal -- but we didn't want one. We had no problems entering the 1.1 mile tunnel with everyone else. Well, the only problem was the passenger -- that would be me -- being unable to enjoy the drop down the side of the mountain since I had my head in my lap.

And down we went into Zion. There were no campsites available at Watchman so we were directed to the South Campground where sites were available although not on the scenic river side. The campground filled up pretty fast by nightfall. This was the first time in our trip we had run into crowds. We didn't like it.

A trip on the shuttle up the canyon was pleasant and the hiking trail at the end was easy and far too tame for some of us. The next day a more strenuous hike was in store but some of us were already eager to move on because we didn't like the crowds, weren't happy with the overused campground and truly out of date facilities. I felt closed in being in that canyon and although the mountains around us were spectacular they could not meet or surpass the sheer beauty we had seen driving north on 95 through red rock country. Some of us wanted to cut out early. And we did. Our traveling buddies, Lyn and Ann, could not use the east entrance to Zion due to the length of their combined rig and truck so we all left out of the southwest entrance heading down into Arizona and a way point, Tuba City, before we headed to Canyon de Chelly.

Kodachrome Basin State Park and Bryce National Park, Utah

We left Capitol Reef National Park reluctantly but headed out early towards Bryce National Park. Friends had told us about Kodachrome Basin State Park and urged us to stay there. It is about 15 miles from Bryce. Are we happy we took their advice.

Kodachrome Basin State Park is in a spectacular setting about nine miles off the main highway. Our campsite, #20, had a grotto of mature juniper and chamisa that enveloped our picnic table and firepit. It was so enclosed and private that we felt we were the only ones in the camp. In fact, the camp host had raked the campsite! That and hot showers get my vote for best place to stay. Although the trip into Bryce from Kodachrome Basin is long the drive is lovely and a stop at Ruby's just before you enter Bryce NP is a welcome shopping experience.

We loved Bryce. The Hoodoos were extraordinary and some of our party did a couple of hikes they said were pretty wonderful.

Capitol Reef National Park

Friends told us to make certain we stopped at Capitol Reef National Park. We hadn't planned to do that until they pressed us to visit the Park. And we are glad we followed their advice. To the left is a picture of Ann posing as a cairn.

Two things. The drive on 95 north between Natural Bridges National Monument and Capitol Reef National Park is spectacular. It is jaw dropping! I had always thought of Utah as a fly over state, a place to change planes at Salt Lake City. No more. We will return to southern Utah again and again to see the stunning natural beauty of the place.

We were lucky. The road north was empty for miles and miles. The views were stupendous and they didn't stop coming at us. Every turn revealed new and vast vistas. We were exhausted by seeing so much beauty when we entered Capitol Reef National Park and searched for a campsite there.

The Park has two campsites, both well treed and pleasantly laid out. We found two sites side by side and relaxed knowing that we would be there for a couple of days. The campsite is heavy with fruit trees, all for the picking and an old homestead which is open to the public and sells homemade ice cream, pies, bread and butter pickles, and Chow Chow (a childhood personal favorite). Hiking is pretty wonderful, too. Mule Deer weave throughout the campsite driving the dogs crazy. If you want to eat out one night it means a trip into town and dinner at the Diablo Cafe. The food is excellent and it the cafe is packed. Reservations are only taken for parties of six or more. Prepare to wait on line unless you want to brave the elements and eat on the patio (there are heaters).

Natural Bridges National Monument

Natural Bridges National Monument is a delight. The nine mile scenic rim route took us to three separate overlooks of "natural bridges." If one wants to hike down to the bridges one can do so if they get a kick out of traversing slick rock, climbing steep ladders, dangling off overhangs, and thrill at sheer drops. We passed.

The site has a small campground, first come/first served. Of the thirteen sites there we managed to get the last two. With the exception of a couple of sites right on top of one another all the other sites were well spaced out and well treed.

Tomorrow we take off for Capitol Reef National Park.

Navajo Lake State Park, New Mexico

This is our first stop on the two week road trip that will take us through southern Utah and northern Arizona. This will also be a test of putting 2500 miles on the View. Can't wait!

Navajo Lake State Park is in the northwestern park of New Mexico, up near the Colorado border. It is a lovely state park and we managed to capture a first come, first served site overlooking the lake and the marina. Ann and Lyn got their Airstream into the site next to us. I highly recommend sites 73 and 74. This is definitely a state park worth coming back to for its great siting and fishing. We didn't want to leave but we headed out the next morning bound for Natural Bridges National Monument in Utah.

Aspen Glade National Forest Service Campground, Colorado

A spur of the moment trip to Aspen Glade Forest Service Campground in Southern Colorado is a highlight of this summer's camping experience. Aspen Glade is on Rt. 17 about 15 miles west of Antonito at US 285, just over the border from northern New Mexico.

A number of us met up there and all managed to find first come/first served spots right on the Conejos River. The Conejos is a trophy trout stream in a beautiful setting nestled in a narrow alpine covered canyon. The three days on the river included trying out our rusting abilities to fly fish. What a challenge! The brisk wind made it impossible to cast upstream or across the stream. But we tried and had great fun being out in this lovely place.

This is a dry camping site but there is water available. The campground closes this week but keep it in mind for next year with an aim to get the choicest sites -- either 20, 21, or 22.

Villanueva State Park, New Mexico

We packed up the View, settled the three dogs in, and headed east on I-25 out of Santa Fe towards Las Vegas, NM on our way to Villanueva State Park. The exit for the park is off I-25 at #323 and then south on Rt. 3 for 15 miles. This 15 mile stretch twists and turns and gets progressively narrow heading into the the Village of Villanueva and the State Park.

The State Park is in a narrow canyon with the Pecos River flowing through it hard up against a sheer canyon wall. We had followed the road in under a vibrant blue sky with big puffy white clouds. The Pecos River was running fast and clear. The fishing was said to be excellent. Within an hour we heard thunder and there followed winds up to 25-30 mph hour running fast through the canyon. The blue skies were gone. The clouds were charcoal. The rains came. Fishing was out. We hunkered down with a steak and wine and watched DVDs.

The next morning was clear but the Pecos ran opaque red (that is a picture of the Pecos River and our rig above) from the previous night's wash down the mountains. We hiked up the side of the mountain to a look out. The trail was narrow and rock strewn and I stopped near the top as I saw the trail get real skinny. Jules pressed onward to the top. Coming down was the hard part. I recommend hiking sticks. Once down we explored the nearly empty park while dodging the free ranch cattle lumbering around. There are a few full hook ups for RVs but we recommend site #17-B with no hookups if you want privacy and the excellent fishing in the Pecos River steps from your rig. The site has a sheltered picnic table, fire ring, and plenty of tree cover. Other sites, although most were on the Pecos River, were too close together for our taste. We were pleased that the bathroom facilities were so modern and well maintained. They have flush toilets and showsers. We highly recommend a stop at this State Park.New Mexico State Parks

San Antonio Hot Springs, New Mexico: August 2007

Of all the hot springs in the Jemez Mountains we were told that the San Antonio Hot Springs were the most beautiful. Julie and I piled into Ann and Lyn's big honking 350 Ford diesel 4x4 truck and headed out to find the hot springs. The entrance to the San Antonia Hot Springs is on Forest Road 376 off of Rt. 4 high up in the Jemez Mountains. The road in to the hot springs is listed as rough.

The four of us have agreed that this is the roughest neck snapping road we have ever been on. Ever. Once we had entered the road we soon knew that backing up was not an option. Even if we could have backed up the fearless explorers among us -- Julie and Ann -- would have convinced us that forging ahead was worth it. And it was worth it despite a five mile one lane rock strewn road hanging off the edge of the mountain with no guard rails at about two miles an hour rattling our bones and spiking the anxieties of those of us fearing a plunge over the side of a mountain. That would be Lyn and me.

The bone jarring ride ends in an open meadow in a canyon. The road here had pot holes the size of small houses. Once parked there is a short walk to a narrow stream. We chose to avoid the rotting logs and rusty spikes called a bridge and waded the shallow water to the other side. This is followed by a steep hike up the side of the mountain to the hot springs while skirting curious cows. There we found three pools of clear steaming water each cascading into the one below and one person in the largest pool, a man who had passed us 30 minutes earlier on his mountain bike.

The setting at about 8300 feet was spectacular and once we dipped in the steaming water and sat on the rocks eating our lunch we knew we were in a very special place. Ann and Julie want to reurn next year to commenorate the trip. Lyn and Paula will sit that one out at the camp. Sometimes it is sweeter to savor a singular memory rather than repeat the experience again. It is never as good the second time around.

Fenton Lake State Park, New Mexico: August 2007

We met our friends, Ann and Lyn, at Fenton Lake State Park for a three day camping trip. Ann and Lynn pull a beautiful 25' Airstream with their two dogs, Peach and Casey. The State Park is high up in the Jemez Mountains about 115 miles from Santa Fe. We chose to drive to the state park by dropping down on I25 to Bernallio and then moving west on 550 and then north on Rt. 4 to the park. We avoided going through Los Alamos and taking Rt. 4 that way because Paula has a major fear of mountain passes with endless switchbacks and no guardrails. It is a spectacular drive we are told but our alternate route was pretty special once out of the Jemez Pueblo area going north on Rt. 4.

The State Park has five hook up sites and many dry camping sites. Of those five hookups I would not recommend site 1 or 2. They are right on top of one another. The other sites -- 3, 4, and 5 -- offer some space between them. When we were there the park was quiet and lightly attended. We can imagine that it is packed during high season. I would opt for the dry camping sites the next time we camp there. And we will camp there again. Those sites are spread out among the pines, are fingered with hiking trails and sit close to a small babbling stream. The downside for some campers could be the large number of cows in the campground. New Mexico is free range country and cattle do lumber throughout the park. The area is set on a small fishing lake with views of alpine covered mountains (unfortunately the mountains are scarred in places from a two year old fire). There are many hiking trails within the park and the area outside the park is loaded with more hiking opportunities.

We had five dogs between Ann and Lyn and Julie and myself. Only two -- Peach and Lola -- got along. They are running sisters. Julie and I decided that our next long trip in October would include only one of our three dogs. Reno, the old girl, gets to go. Our rig, a Winnebago View, cannot handle two adults and three large dogs for more than two camping nights.

Carlsbad Caverns

So many people I know had been "dragged" to Carlsbad Caverns when they were kids. Now as more patient adults they want to go back and see it again. I had never been to the Caverns as a kid and my only adult experience of caves was a visit to Howe Caverns in upstate New York. At Howe Caverns I was frightened by the narrow dark passages and nearly fled from an attack of claustrophobia. Visiting Carlsbad Caverns was a far different experience.

We chose to tour the main cavern because some of the other caverns were ranger led tours that included some narrow tunnels. After descending in an elevator we entered into a series of huge rooms with endless vistas. The self-guided tour was an easy 1.5 hour walk along a narrow pathway. We arrived at 10 a.m. and pretty much had the place to ourselves. I won't attempt to describe how awesome and astoundingly beautiful these Caverns are -- the reader will experience that for him or herself.

If you have dogs you will notice signs that state it is mandatory to board them on the premises while you are touring the Caverns. The fee is minimal and on a sweltering day it would be humane to put dogs in the onsite air conditioned kennels. The rangers are firm -- they do not want generators running in the parking lot there. We visited on an overcast windy day and were told we could get by without boarding if we left the rig windows open. We opened all the windows and the dogs slept comfortably for the two hours we toured the Caverns.

Brantley Lake State Park -- Near Carlsbad, New Mexico: July 2007

We drove on US 285 south from Santa Fe to stay two nights at Brantley Lake State Park, the closest public campground to Carlsbad Caverns, New Mexico. The ride was profounding boring. The scenery was flat, the heat shimmered off the pavement, and the eye could not rest on anything much that was beautiful. Julie, who tends to be eternally optimistic, said that there was beauty to be found in the flat dry plains. I must have missed it. I would suggest a different route if you plan a trip to Carlsbad Caverns from northern New Mexico. Julie agrees.

The campground is in a beautiful high desert setting four miles off of Rt. 285 about 12 miles northeast of Carlsbad, NM. It was in the mid-90's during our visit and since the campground has no shade (although our site had two trees) the mid-day heat was especially strong. It did not cool down much during the evening hours but there was a welcome light rain that kept us away from turning on the air conditioner in the rig.

We recommend site #16, a water and electric hookup, due to its proximity to a walking trail (especially nice if you have dogs) down to the lake, the view of Brantley Lake, and the relative separateness from the other sites. The facilities at this campground were clean but dated. We would definitely return to this public campground but later in the year when the days are cooler.

We chose to avoid the boring return trip to Santa Fe on US 285. Instead we drove west out of Artesia on 82 through the Sacramento Mountains. The drive through the mountains was beautiful -- there were stunning views in places -- and it will be an area we will explore further in future trips to southern New Mexico. As we came down out of the mountains we could see White Sands National Park off to the west and the Capitan Mountains to our north. At Alamogordo we went north on 54 to Duran (a beautiful drive and no traffic) where we picked up Rt. 3 to Encino and then back on US 285 to Santa Fe.

Riana Campground at Abiquiu Lake, New Mexico: June 2007

This Corps of Engineers campground is a mile off U.S. Hwy 84 in northcentral New Mexico 30 miles north of Espanola.

This campground is on a knoll overlooking Abiquiu Lake. All campsites have a view of the large sprawling lake and the mountains to the west. The views were superb and the sunsets beautiful. My bet is if the wind kicks up campers are rocking and rolling but during our visit all was calm.

There is no lake access from the campground. The closest town is Abiquiu which has a small store selling everything including great lunch sandwiches to go. There is a post office and the main and only attraction in Abiquiu is the home of Georgia O'Keeffe. Tours are available if you call months in advance (check at the Abiquiu Inn). A little north of the campground is Ghost Ranch with its astounding natural beauty, some nice hikes, and a great place to picnic.

We did not return to Santa Fe the way we came to the campsite. Instead we did a huge 200 mile loop to the west, dropped south, then headed east to Bernallio where we caught I25 north to Santa Fe. This long ride gave us an appreciation of the western side of the Jemez Mountains. The trip is remembered for the changing colors of the mountains and mesas -- white, yellow, red -- and the huge blue sky all around us.

We would definitely return to this campground.